Paso Robles

Kickass wines from an enterprising region

By TYLER BALLIET

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When most people think of California, wine regions like Napa Valley, Sonoma County or Santa Barbara come to mind. Well, there's actually a whole lot more to California than just these famous regions. Paso Robles, California's newest rising star, is located halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco. This tiny farming community was barely on the map a decade ago, but is now churning out world-class wine.

The region started by producing big, fat and juicy Zinfandels, ripened in the hot, sun-soaked mountainsides. In recent years, the region has expanded to include Rhône grapes, like Grenache, Syrah, Mouvèdre and Viognier, introduced by the French giant Château de Beaucastel. The major French winery brought over grapes with fellow Paso Robles winemakers, and the wine region began to take shape. It's grown from about 20 wineries in 1990 to more than 180 today. The top wines from Paso Robles are similar in quality to the big guns from Napa Valley, but come in at half the price. It's time to explore what this region has to offer.

Peachy Canyon

Doug and Nancy Beckett produced their first wine under the Peachy Canyon label in 1988, making them one of the first wineries in the region. They cut their teeth making damn good Zinfandel, but are now branching out and making wine with other grapes, like the 2006 Cirque du Vin, made from Petit Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. They pride themselves on making $20 bottles and selling them for $15. Even though they're one of the largest wineries in Paso Robles, they're still family owned and use sustainable farming practices on their property.

Try 2006 Peachy Canyon Incredible Red for a great entry-level Zinfandel with bright, juicy fruit. [Available for $13 at Bauer Wine and Spirits, 330 Newbury St., Boston. 617.262.0363. bauerwines.com]

Tablas Creek

After years of searching for the perfect plot of land, high-end, French powerhouse Château de Beaucastel, along with a prominent American importer, found the perfect property on a western hill in Paso Robles. They proceeded to import all eight grapes from their Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards to California. The winery uses traditional French winemaking practices combined with distinctly California-grown grapes to make kickass wines. Perfectly balanced, these wines are a stark contrast to the high-alcohol, juicy wines made by their neighbors.

Try the 2006 Côtes de Tablas Blanc for a full-bodied white made from Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. [Available for $16 at Bin Ends, 236 Wood Rd., Braintree. 781.817.1212. binendswine.com]

Opolo

Holy crap, these guys don't mess around. They make big, mega-bold, karate-chop-you-in-the-kidneys wines, some hitting 16 percent and higher (for contrast, French wines are usually around 12.5 percent). With an emphasis on making great small-production wines, but having a damn good time doing it, the winemakers crank out some seriously intense vino. The Mountain Zinfandel is a fruit-loaded, cherry-flavored beast, but goes down silky smooth. All of their wines follow suit and make the perfect accompaniment to all things barbecued.

Try the 2004 Opolo Fusion, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. [Available for $22 at Kappy's, 10 Revere Beach Parkway, Medford. 781.395.8888. kappys.com]