BLEACHER BAR

By ALBERT FORSYTH | PHOTOS BY DEREK KOUYOUMJIAN

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With Avalon and Axis reduced to rubble and the House of Blues quickly rising, this once mighty street of nightlife is being reborn for the morning and noon. The Bleacher Bar, one of the coolest underbellies I've seen anywhere, is front and center while also slightly hidden, the perfect place for a daytime buzz.

Drink 1: Sam Adams Octoberfest ($5). When I asked the bartender, Lindsey, what the quintessential drink was here at the Bleacher Bar, she quipped without hesitation, "Sam Seasonal. Two weeks earlier it was Summer, now it's the Octoberfest. Every third person will order one, just watch." And, as if prompted by cue cards and props, the next four or so orders all included a Sam Seasonal. Lindsey soon darted over to the other side of the bar to take yet another order of ... you guessed it.

Drink 2: "Old-fashioned" margarita ($11.50). With Don Julio Blanco and a Grand Marnier floater, this was anything but "old-fashioned" or predictable. As my choice for the "obvious day drink," this was a shot in the arm, kick in the ass and just enough slap in the face to make me forget about my breakfast just hours removed. In less than 15 minutes, I had sucked down this tropical piece of candy, crisp and perfectly balanced.

Drink 3: Michelob Ultra ($5). As I looked around, I noticed a shiny, shimmering bottle-can in the hand of an older gentleman in front of the garage-style gate that had been opened, exposing the grassy field beyond. Did I mention that yet? Yeah, the bar looks out over the center field of FENWAY PARK. Anyway, what was I drinking? Oh yeah, Michelob Ultra. Within three quick gulps, this aluminum bullet of a beer was gone. I'll leave it at that.

Drink 4: Miller Chill Chelada Style ($5.50). Caught between a hard-nosed concoction and a beer she's yet to try, Lindsey felt it necessary that, in the end, I needed to try the Chill and let her know how it tasted. This sort of passive dare went over like a sour lime. I'm aware that these kinds of beers are hugely popular right now, but holy fuck—was this downright challenging. I wanted to pour salt over my tongue after each swig and add something flaming.

Drink 5: Hendricks' gin and tonic (two limes) ($9). This was Lindsey's pick of the day and given all I've heard about Hendrick's, a safe bet to satisfy. Lightly tinged with cucumber and other subtleties, the gin's flavor easily refreshed. As I looked around at the crowd enjoying the Fenway view, I felt like a homerun and was ready for the dugout ... and then ...

Extra Innings: A shot of Fernet Branca ($8). It wouldn't be a bar deep under center field if it didn't go into extra innings with a shot. This weirdly spicy and biting choice is apparently a late-night industry favorite. For me, it was like sliding into home base face first and hearing the ump yell, "You're out!"