Cisco Summer of Lager

By JASON + TODD ALSTRÖM

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Lagers are underrated by most consumers and avoided by most brewers. Many consumers associate this style with some of the larger and more popular brands of American or imported lagers (and Pilsners) that often get a bad rap from beer geeks gone snob. Though arguably not as diverse as ales, lagers can actually range from pale to black, from subtle to smoky and everything in between.

As for brewers, these bottom-fermented brews require cool fermentation and long periods of maturation—"lager" is derived from the German verb "lagern," which means "to store." And the longer a beer sits in a vessel, the longer that vessel isn't making revenue, which is why the quick turnaround of warmer, top-fermenting ales is often preferred. Additionally, it's impossible for brewers to hide flaws in lagers on the paler side, as the success of these beers relies on delicacy and balance.

This week we taste Summer of Lager from Cisco Brewers in Nantucket, Mass. Cisco describes the beer as such: "The lager is the lightest, most refreshing of our beers. It's a classic Bavarian style lager with a delicious bready malt palate and an assertive noble hop finish. It just makes your mouth beg for more ..." It's brewed with Belgian lager malt, German Munich malt, some wheat malt and Mt. Hood hops (a triploid hybrid of the Hallertau). It's also brewed in October, lagered and sold the following summer.

We love lagers—just wanted to throw that out there.

The Taste

Pours a hazy gold color with tons of carbonation, creating a billowy foam that seeks to escape the glass. The nose is soft and bready, with a slight musty, husky character and faint vinous herbal notes. Body is thicker than expected—full, round and a bit viscous; very creamy and smooth on the palate, too. More bready malt characters—breadiness dominations the brew—followed by a light sweetness, grape notes from the Munich malt and an herbal hop flavor with a slight spicy kick. Sweet cereal grains toward the finish, which turns a bit course, dry and grainy ... oh, and moreish. Cisco was right.

Final Thoughts

Summer of Lager is a fantastic lager that comes in at just over 6 percent alcohol by volume and is full of flavor, while maintaining its balance and subtleties—as a good lager should. Definitely a must-try for lagerheads or anyone wanting to try a solid interpretation of a German Munich Helles. We picked up a 22-ounce bomber at Harvest Co-op [581 Mass. Ave., Central Sq., Cambridge. 617.661.1580. harvest.coop] for $5.99.

FOR MORE INFO: CISCOBREWERS.COM

FOR MORE BEER EDUCATION: BEERADVOCATE.COM

RESPECT BEER.