Publick House Provisions

The sweet beerafter

By LLALAN FOWLER

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On the left wall of the recently opened Publick House Provisions specialty shop stands the wet dream of all those who have ever smuggled a pint glass from a bar under their jackets: floor-to-ceiling shelves packed with shimmering glassware, seemingly one for every style of beer ever made, and maybe a few extra for good measure.

There's only one thing missing: beer. Empty coolers line the right-hand wall all the way to the back. How could this be? A store flying the flag of The Publick House—the renowned bar down the block decorated in garlands of hops—has no beer? Provisions' manager, Jamie Hios, explains that the owners have run up against a state law prohibiting the owner of an "on-premise" (bar/restaurant) liquor license from owning an "off-premise" (liquor store) license in the same town. Bottom line: No one really knows how long it will take to stock all 230 to 250 kinds of beer they anticipate carrying—almost everything the Publick House serves. So we wait and salivate.

Until then, there's plenty of other foodstuffs to drool over, like the glass case of Belgian truffles arranged in alluring rows or organic snacks strewn about. Perhaps most tempting, another giant case bursts with huge wheels of unpronounceable international cheeses—several of those featured in The Publick House's artisanal cheese boards are available for sale here.

The Provisions shop may be new, but you will be wooed. Sun shines through the glassed-in entrance, lighting up the bright yellow walls and vibrant red ceiling and illuminating the reading nook stocked with beer books and magazines. Sturdy wooden shelves stretch the length of the long, narrow store, loaded with foods that spin twists on classic snacks (like pomegranate black bean salsa). All this is just down the street from the mothership, so by all means, have a drink or two before shopping.

But beer's not the only addition we have to look forward to. The Publick House owners hope to open The Roadhouse—a restaurant focusing on Texas-style barbeque and American craft beers—sometime this summer. Cross your fingers.

[1706 Beacon St., Washington Sq., Brookline. 617.277.2880]