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Sugar hi
Futzing with ice cream makes us melt
By CHRISTINE LIU
In the beginning there was cream, and then there was ice and, lo and behold, the ice cream was born. Diabolically versatile, its consumption in myriad forms boggle the mind and tantalize the tummy: cone, cup, soft-serve, sundaed, on pie, even stuffed in frozen cake. There's nowhere to go from here but up and beyond, thereby ushering in the era for something truly revolutionary: Ice. Cream. Sandwich. Molds. The future is here, and it's really freaking sweet.
The set of molds ($12.95), a rugged trio of shapes including a heart, a star and something called the "squircle," comes courtesy of Tovolo, Seattle-based geniuses of kitchen gadgetry. Their perkily modern products, like "perfect cube" ice trays and neon citrus reamers, make design geeks titter with bliss. So it's no surprise that the molds, which come in bright Crayola shades, are pieces of wonder, imprinting so-cute-I'm-going-to-die details on the 'wiches like "XOXO" and old-school dotty divots.
It's pretty no-brainer: cut cookies or brownies to shape, layer them with ice cream in the mold, press, remove and proceed to gild the sugar lily with sprinkles, candy and daubs of rocket fuel. And yet, an accompanying pamphlet includes highly detailed instructions on assembly, including recommendations for what kind of cookie recipes work best and to "remember to cut two cookies for each sandwich." Good point. Tips also include ways to doctor up packaged cookie dough and ice cream (simple and awesome: add cinnamon and pears to vanilla) plus from-scratch recipes like "Grandma Esther's Best Cookie." We're on it. You don't diss Grandma.
[Available at KitchenArts, 161 Newbury St., Boston. 617.266.8701. kitchenarts.biz, tovolo.com]



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