Vee Vee

The fresh, friendly bee's knees in JP

By CHRISTINE LIU

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Rating: ***

Though we let the chips fall where they may, it seems as if there's a sustainable shoutout in almost every issue. Between our zeal for farmers' markets and a Veggie Booty-eating bunny underfoot, you'd think we'd all be rolling around in fresh compost. However, the trend of terroir and environmental awareness—being conscious of the story behind things we eat, from butter lettuce to pork belly—doesn't seem to be dying anytime soon. It's a perfect climate to usher in JP's neighborhood nook Vee Vee, serving up such philosophies in a loving, understated way.

In the snug spot previously occupied by teahouse Cha Fahn, Daniel and Kristen Valachovic present their red-walled, dark-wooded, 20-seater as a laid-back hangout with noteworthy respect to seasonal and local ingredients. Vegetarians will sup gloriously here, but there's plenty of animal protein to go around. With loyalty to Jamaica Plain (and ties to Zon's, where Daniel is presently the bar manager), the Valachovics boast over 25 years of collective food industry experience. Little touches, like a space heater placed by the door to keep waiting patrons warm, or taking coats to keep the petite dining space uncluttered, quietly speak of a conscientious hospitality.

The thoughtfulness continues on the menu, where organically grown selections—there are quite a few— are helpfully asterisked on the keen wine list. Beer is categorized by "local shores" and "overseas," sating worldly thirsts from Allagash White on draft ($6) to a goblet-worthy Westmalle Dubbel Ale ($11). Tea and coffee are all Equal Exchange. There are plenty of wines available by the glass, each curiously served with a beaker painstakingly filled to 150mL. It's perplexingly gimmicky, but all's soon forgiven after a bite of stellar butter (local?) smeared on chunks of white bread.

A tight menu of six appetizers and six entrees helps ease decision-making stress, but unfortunately it doesn't ensure all choices are equally promising. Vee Vee cheat sheet? Trust the kitchen with seafood (especially pan- or deep-fried) and lay a fat kiss on their cheese buyer. The shrimp and scallop fritter ($8) drizzled with chipotle aioli is supremely satisfying, properly crisp with moist pieces nestled among the tender interior. Wild mushroom pate ($6) has a creamy texture studded with nuts—yet its mildness left me wanting for a more earthy punch. Roasted acorn squash soup ($6) topped with crème fraîche tastes decent, yet hits the table lukewarm. Though I do love me some acidity, the romaine salad with preserved lemons and green olives ($6), despite a welcome dose of parmesan, is exceedingly, inexcusably sour. Worth tackling is the roasted beet and fennel salad ($8) with snappy watercress and gorgeous Gorgonzola. Despite indistinguishable fennel flavor and that the cubed beets weren't as melting as on my first visit (this time were they—gasp—steamed?), the potential virtues of this salad still inexplicably haunt me.

Larger plates hit marvelous highs and unfortunate lows. First, utter victory: Cornmeal-crusted skate wing ($18) sports a cravable crunchy exterior encasing meltingly delicate flesh, sliced and fanned over a bed of mellow sunchoke puree. Bright dashes of salsa verde (more herbal "green sauce" than spice) and addictive pearl onions are show-stealing accompaniments. Filo turnovers stuffed with wild mushrooms and gooey Gruyère ($16) are flaky and rich ("our menu's comfort food," says our server) with a faint edge of breakfast-danish sweetness. Yet the filling begs for more mushrooms—is there perchance a price hike on luscious fungus? Vee Vee, bring it on. Pappardelle with clams, roasted tomato, bacon and greens ($18) needs some work. The clams come overcooked and chewy, and the noodles arrive a hint past al dente, but it's hard to clearly focus because everything is excruciatingly, distracting salty. (A bacon dish that doesn't deliver? Say it ain't so.) But hold fast, pescatarians—herb-basted cod ($20) revives hope, with a thick, flavorful piece of fish perched on a bed of wholesomely chewy wheatberries, superfresh greens and an anchoring mushroom ragout. If healthy could ever be hip, this is it.

If you have room, don't dare leave without the most hypnotic dish at this joint: a chai crème-cloaked poached pear brazenly joined by a hunk of Blu del Moncenisio, a cave-aged Italian cheese ($6). The pairing's intense, intelligent and—for those undaunted by serious funk—unforgettable. (Hint: it was also the fav of the ladies present.) I grieve for the previous incarnation of espresso crème brûlée ($5), its accompanying biscotti, doused in decadent chocolate glaze, sorely missed. New sides of candied citrus peel and walnuts are elegant, but seem more of an inconsequential (and oversweet) frill. Yet chocolate bread pudding with black currants ($5) brings a comforting pile of carbs, browned on top and lusciously eggy underneath for a complete texture nirvana.

Vee Vee takes risks, yet any shortcomings—especially with ongoing menu tweakage—can feasibly turn into its brilliant edge. It strikes a genius balance between cozy and chic. The place throbs with happy JP residents. It gently educates on what good food and drink can be. One can only wait to see what Vee Vee's spring will bring.

Scale:

***** Victorious

**** Virtuous

*** Valuable

** Volatile

* Vapid

VEE VEE

763 CENTRE ST., JAMAICA PLAIN

617.522.0145

VEEVEEJP.COM

DINNER: TUE-SUN 5:30PM-10PM