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| FEATURES | BLOGS | DAILY DIG | GEAR |
On a roll
Chasing tail of the hidden lobster sandwich
By JENNIFER CACICIO
del.ico.us
reddit!
No one's denying the existence of Boston's few hallowed meccas of seafood nonpareil, where bottom-feeding lobsters have found their niche in the upscale sandwich. But when you're looking for a simple, no-frills bite that won't cost you upwards of 20 bucks, here are some other spots worth seeking out.
ALIVE & KICKING | $12.95
About as seafood-shack as you can get within city limits, Alive & Kicking provides the Cambridgeport community with the Atlantic's daily catches. On a recent trip, the freezer was filled with oysters, mussels and sole fillets; a colorful sign announced the arrival of soft-shell crabs, and three gigantic bubbling tanks were temporarily home to live lobsters. The sandwiches are made to order and are as no-frills as the atmosphere. Forget onion, celery and airy brioche. Here, it's just fresh chunks of lobster in a light sheen of mayo, served between two pieces of buttered Italian toast. Despite the crude accoutrements—tinfoil wrapper, tiny bag of Ruffles—the flavor of the sandwich is surprisingly delicate and delish.
[269 Putnam Ave., Cambridge. 617.876.0451]
BELLE ISLE SEAFOOD | $16.95
Belle Isle is primarily a takeout endeavor, but if you're a city-goer who ventures via the Blue Line, a few lone stools line the window overlooking the Winthrop Bridge. This spot offers everything from Cajun swordfish to raw shrimp, served as a hot meal or by the pound. The lobster sandwich is an overflowing cornucopia of fresh meat, the impressive half-pound piled so high that the warm hot dog bun beneath is barely visible. Other than a slim sheet of lettuce, the sandwich is largely unadorned and the meat, sadly underseasoned, bearing little proof of salt, pepper or mayo. Nonetheless, neither the quantity nor the quality of the sandwich can be denied, and with your choice of fries, rings, slaw or rice on the side, chances are you'll be happy as ... well, a clam.
[1267 Saratoga St., East Boston. 617.567.1619]
CHARLIE'S KITCHEN | $11
Charlie's has nestled into the hearts of most of us who like dark bars, good music, decent burgers and cheap beer. But lobster? It's never been first on my list. Nonetheless, the rumor of two lobster rolls for 11 bucks begged exploration, and I soon discovered that the rumor is true. The two stout hot dog buns arrived stuffed with a lively lobster salad—bright, slightly fishy meat, creamy mayo, crunchy celery, scallions and shredded lettuce. This is the opposite of the plain Jane offered at Belle Isle, where the freshness of the meat speaks for itself; instead, this roll, with its many mix-ins and crispy fries on the side, comes dressed to party. And this works just fine for its locale. After all, sometimes even dancin' kids need a lobster fix.
[10 Eliot St., Harvard Sq., Cambridge. 617.492.9646]
KELLY'S ROAST BEEF | $16.95
The Kelly's chain has spread to the suburbs, but that hasn't allowed the food or service to slack back at the flagship. The original has been sitting on the same corner of Revere Beach since 1951, and all that's changed is the appearance of luxury waterfront condos that occupy the block, and hence, the price of a sandwich. Still, nothing beats grabbing a grease-spotted bag from Kelly's takeout-only window, then crossing the street to sit on the stone wall and enjoy your lunch by the sea. The lobster sandwich is pretty much ideal—a toasted, buttered hot dog roll packed with 8 ounces of perfectly seasoned meat. Add a touch of diced celery and mayo, and you've got yourself a sandwich sans complaint, arriving with a pickle and a bag of chips.
[410 Revere Beach Blvd., Revere. 781.284.9129. kellysroastbeef.com]
