Thank you for smoking

Fire it up with these barbecue joints

By ERIKA BARRIE

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Boston has many fine barbecue establishments devoted to the art of smoke, sauce, sides and swine. If you know where to look, the city's 'cue scene is alive and kicking—just in time for your Memorial Day picnic, back porch beerfest or arduous Tivo catch-up session.

BBQ TOWN

Its motto, "Barbecue & More!" is spot-on. On its expansive menu, BBQ Town offers subs, pizzas, wraps and a smattering of Latin American and Italian specialties. There are some truly tasty desserts, including a firm, creamy flan and a raisin-studded bread pudding. But don't miss the tangy pulled meats or the charcoal-grilled items; all are sweet and smoky with a zippy, never-bottled sauce. Vegetarian friends can still keep with the barbecue theme, dining on the 16-plus sides, though the tender collards have clearly gotten cozy with a ham hock. The cornbread is lightly sweet, tender yet gritty. Admire the framed photos of the Red Sox World Series, movie western heroes (including Shirley Temple) and African-American civil rights and war heroes while you wait for your order.

[4000 Washington St., Roslindale. 617.522.1010. bbqtown.com]

PIT STOP BARBEQUE

If you've ever driven by Pit Stop, you've smelled the smoky, meaty deliciousness that awaits. Don't let the cramped double parking in front dissuade you—it's all good and worth the trip by T or car. This veritable barbecue shack offers cuts from creatures that moo, oink and cluck, including Friday-'til-they're-out chitterlings. Past the well-seasoned smokers in the parking lot, watch father and son man the grill, while Mom mops sauce and serves up sides like homemade mac & cheese, lightly porky collards and fresh, tangy coleslaw. The pulled meats and ribs, South Carolina-style, are exceptional ... and did we mention the collards? The cornbread is southern, not sweet, and perfectly offsets the lightly vinegary sauce. Pit Stop is strictly takeout—with so many queuing up, there's no elbow room at the two small tables. Save the eating for home, where you can savor the real thing in comfort.

[888 Morton St., Mattapan. 617.436.0485]

BILLY'S TEXAS BBQ

Billy's Texas BBQ may look like a pizza place, but don't judge a book by its cover. These are pink-at-the-bone, lightly smoked ribs in a true-to-Texas sauce, sweet and smoky with a hint of spice. The candied yams are meltingly soft, and cinnamon-sweet enough to horrify your dentist. They're a nice foil to the silky, peppery, perfectly salted collards. With beef and pork ribs, grilled steak tips and chicken, the 'cue menu is straightforward and worthwhile. The rib meat slides off the bone, with a light layer of fat to complement the juicy, just-chewy-enough, flavorful meat. The sides of rice, collards, yams, potato salad and corn are clearly made with love.

[530 Washington St., Dorchester. 617.288.6161]

BOSTON SAUSAGE COMPANY (AKA THE SMOKEHOUSE)

Got grilling cojones? This is your place. If you've enjoyed andouille, chorizo or gourmet sausage in local restaurants, you've sampled the Smokehouse's work. Choose from a dizzying array of the Smokehouse's bulk boxes of sausages, in a full range of unendangered meats (chicken, turkey, pork, beef, lamb, veal, duck) and varieties to suit your carnivorous urges. The ham hocks are essential for good greens; the tasso ham completes your gumbo. Need a goose breast to impress? The Smokehouse has it. But 'cue hounds will drool over the beef brisket —just fatty enough—and the ready-to-reheat beef and pork ribs in a tangy sauce. Get a cold-smoked pork butt to serve while your guests wait for your grill's coals to ash over.

[1188 Blue Hill Ave., Mattapan. 617.298.6300]