POST 390

An Urban Tavern Delivers the Goods

By PATRICK MAIN

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The group that brings the foodies of Boston (and Cambridge) the much-loved dining experiences at Grill 23 and Harvest have a new offering, located right in the heart of the Back Bay. The interior is split over two floors, both with dark wood and black brick details, and windows that offer views onto both Stuart and Clarendon streets. You can not only see a wide swath of Copley Square from almost anywhere inside, but the dark color scheme doesn't seem gloomy at all.

As we're being seated, I absent-mindedly respond "still" to the question of whether I preferred that or "sparkling." Quickly forgotten, I realize later that the water didn't appear on my check. Further research reveals that the Natura [naturawater.com] they serve is actually an environmentally friendly water purification system that can dispense chilled still or sparking water on demand, and their bottles are washable and reusable. Bravo!

Since man cannot exist on water alone, environmentally friendly or not, we're pleased with the extensive beer draft and bottle list. Rare finds on-tap Delirium Tremens ($8.50) and Stone Ruination IPA ($7.75) as well as a 22-ounce bottle of Stone Arrogant Bastard ($11.75) are just a few of the delights available.

I start with a bowl of the french onion soup ($8.50), served in a little crock topped with gruyere and emmentaler, with the bread beneath staying crunchy long enough to reach my table. It's a little on the salty side, but delicious nonetheless. We also try the deviled eggs (4/$2.50), which are extremely tasty, plump full of fluffy egg yoke whip, sprinkled with spiced paprika and topped off by teeny red peppers and tart little gherkins.

For entrées, my friend is on to the most essential of comfort food staples, the hamburger ($15). Served on a warm, toasted poppy seed bun, this simple yet well-executed offering does not disappoint. While the beef could have used a little spice, it's cooked medium rare as ordered, smothered in Vermont cheddar and comes complete with fresh, traditional picnic toppings and a three-lettuce side salad. I opt for the St. Louis-style ribs ($19), which come with barbecue sauce and a cucumber salad. The ribs have a great crust, a good, deep smoky flavor, and are fall-off-the-bone tender. Notified ahead of time that the ribs don't come with any sides (although they did), we also grab an order of the beer-and-bacon macaroni and cheese ($13), and thank goodness we do. It's simply the best mac & cheese the city has to offer. With tiny elbows and a nice sharp cheese sauce, it's loaded with shallots and bacon. And unlike many other offerings in town, where the stock mac & cheese is merely topped at the last second with your choice of mix-in, this has bacon flavor throughout. Simply transcendent.

Again, the Himmel Hospitality Group has hit a home run, with a near perfect mix of location and cuisine, with service to match. Whether you're entertaining your parents from out of town, or on a must-woo first date, Post 390 is equal to the task.

Rating: * * * *

* * * * * phenomenal

* * * * added to the regular rotation

* * * solid cuisine, presentation and taste

* * average

* meh

POST 390
406 STUART ST.
BACK BAY, BOSTON
617.399.0015
LUNCH: MON-FRI 11:30AM-2:30PM
DINNER: SUN-THU 5PM-11PM, FRI-SAT 5PM-MIDNIGHT
BAR MENU: DAILY 2:30PM-5PM, MON-WED 11PM-MIDNIGHT, THU 11PM-1AM, FRI-SAT 12AM-1AM
BRUNCH: SUN 11:30AM-2:30PM
POST390RESTAURANT.COM