THE PADDOCK RESTAURANT

249 PEARL ST., SOMERVILLE. 617.628.6525

By Laura Dargus | Photo By Jon Towle

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The Paddock is the epitome of a neighborhood restaurant, and its familial warmth resonates from its kitschy equine décor to bartender Tony's banter with the regulars. "What can I get for you kids?" is how he greets everyone from 60-year-old ladies to twentysomething couples. They've reopened under new management at the beginning of the year with the old chef, Michael, taking the helm as owner. Overall, it's a nice place for a low-key evening out or to watch a game with reliable locals.

Drink 1: Budweiser ($3) . Not long after I sit down at the rough-hewn bar, Joe, a regular, walks in. Every member of the staff says hello as they pass him on their way to the kitchen, and Tony greets him like an old friend. Not sure on my drink selection yet, I order what Joe's having, taking in the joviality his presence has brought to the place. Joe alternates between chatting up the ladies at the end of the bar and giving my friend grief for using "fancy words" like "entrees" when we try ordering food, which Tony has trouble making out over the low din at the bar.

Drink 2: Caribbean Mystique ($6). This fruity concoction is one of their drink specials, and with the combination of Parrot Bay, pineapple juice and a little Captain, it goes down easy enough that I can foresee my night veering off track if I let the Mystique pull me in. It's candy in a glass. Most of their drink specials are of the fruity, tropical persuasion and getting tipsy at The Paddock would not be too far off from getting tipsy at Kowloon where the Mai Tais are just as easily consumed and the clientele mix is comparable.

Drink 3: Woodridge Cabernet ($5).Having ordered the eggplant and veal, I ask Tony which red wine he'd recommend. Though he's partial to the Chianti, the Cabernet's cheaper, so he pours me a glass of that. I appreciate the honesty, and with the combination of elixirs I've already sampled, the Cabernet goes down just fine. The food is delicious and filling, a no-frills accompaniment to the vibe of the place.

Drink 4: French 75 ($8). This one gets my vote for the most exotic combo mixing Courvoisier VS, lemon juice, simple syrup and Champagne. Though served fancily enough, it's not really my thing. Or maybe the mix of cognac and bubbly in addition to everything else I've consumed this evening is where I went wrong.

Drink 5: Espresso Martini ($7). Their tiramisu looks good, but I've got a liquid quota to fill. Made with real espresso, vanilla vodka, Kahlúa and Bailey's, this martini serves as an excellent substitute for dessert—it's definitely my favorite of the night. Having arrived a little early on a Saturday, there was a sparse, older crowd present. However, the place has picked up considerably since we arrived, with more and more young people comingling with the elders at the bar. If I hadn't stuffed myself so full of booze and food I'd be up for staying to see how the night progresses. I'll totally be back though. The Sox are playing soon, and I live practically down the street, which is how most have found this joint from the looks of things.