In recent years, we’ve all seen a growing number of young hipsters sucking back retro beers like Pabst Blue Ribbon (PBR) and Schlitz — plus a lot of national mainstream press that forced the cultural hype down our throats, which literally brought the genre back from the dead. The ritual of drinking grandpa’s beer enabled a veneer of coolness amongst peers at a cheap price, often a mere $2 spent on 16-ounce pounders (aka tallboys). As virgins to the world of craft beer, kids were content with enjoying a pale, fizzy lackluster brew that had more in common with seltzer water than beer.
Regardless, each beer has its place and time, and no doubt many of us have fond memories — old and new — of enjoying an ice-cold tallboy with friends. And despite their lack of flavor when compared to most craft beers, there’s something so damn refreshing about a classic American lager and the “it is what it is” attitude that comes with it.
And we’re no exception. One of our personal favorite is Narragansett Lager.
Since it was founded in 1888 in Cranston, Rhode Island, Narragansett Brewing Company has gone from being New England’s largest brewery … to being bailed out by Rudolf Haffenreffer Jr. after the repeal of Prohibition in 1931 … to becoming the best-selling beer in New England by the mid ’60s and the official beer of the Red Sox for nearly three decades … to being purchased by Falstaff Brewing Company in 1965 who moved all production of Narragansett out of Cranston by 1982 … but then reopened the brewery in 1983 for keg production … only to close it three months later for good. Phew! Wait, we’re not done. In the mid-late ’90s its brewing equipment was shipped to China and the brewery was demolished. Falstaff eventually saw its share of hard times and was taken over by a holding company and contract brewed by other sources.
In 2005, native Rhode Islander Mark Hellendrung, with the help of local investors, purchased the rights to Narragansett and began efforts to bring it back. With the help of former brewmaster Bill Anderson, they began contracting brewing out of La Crosse, Wisconsin, and eventually moved to High Falls Brewing Company in Rochester, NY, where it’s brewed with six-row malt, seedless hops, corn from Iowa and the original post-Prohibition lager yeast strain. They also brew a Light version and Bock beer, but let’s … grab a ‘Gansett!
If you purchase Narragansett in a can, drink it from the can. Yeah, we know, you won’t be able to see the beer or smell much of it, but live a little!
From the can to our mouths: Carbonation is crisp, lively and foamy on the palate creating a smooth feel. Mild sweetness up front with a cereal grain back. Hop character is quite low, but smacks of lime with a touch of oiliness that adds to the body (barely bitter) and a soft Noble hop herbal edge. Dry finish, hints of mineral and coin and a lingering cooked corn flavor.
It is what it is: a simple, balanced and refreshing beer that’s incredibly drinkable — memories in a can.
Narragansett is 5 percent alcohol by volume and available in can, bottle and keg format, but we always recommend the can.
